A Safal Run at bSafal Amdavan Marathon

It all began here. Ahmedabad, the place where I was born, & bsafal, my first HM (in Jan 2015). So this was a homecoming run of sorts. Driving to the venue to collect our bibs, we found metro construction along portions of previous years’ route. We were worried that it would be very difficult to control the Ahmedabad traffic during the latter part of the run, especially now that there is a FM on the race menu too. Going through the route on the event website, we found that the organisers were taking us west this time. Rather Far West, as western Ahmedabad always meant the part lying west of the Sabarmati & we would be running along the SG Highway & the Ring Road. A good choice as both these roads have wide service roads that will assure the runners don’t interfere with the traffic (and vice versa) except at junctions.

The 6:00 AM flag off (on schedule) was preceded immediately by singing of the national anthem. Now, there are residential apartments adjoining the eastern part of the venue. I wondered what should a person, who hears the anthem being played while half asleep, do? Is he expected to stand to attention? But thoughts such as these are not advisable in Ahmedabad, a city where patriotism meets culture. Sorry, read it as conspicuous display of patriotism & culture. As in the case of this runner (though he forgot to wear traditional footwear during the run!) who carried this flag through the distance.

We get to the SG Highway at Gurudwara Junction & turn northwards. Around 17 years back, SG highway was actually a highway, i.e. a dark, unlit stretch of road outside the city. But I often visited it (along with good friend Wilhelm Singh) as there was a dhaba besides the gurudwara that also served chicken. In fact, that was the only non-veg joint (known to us) to the west of Sabarmati. Unlike the earlier occasion, this was the only bout of nostalgia this time. Today the SG Highway is more of an internal city road, lined with retail, commercial & residential space. We turn west towards the Ring Road & soon passed an under construction project named “Satyamev Eminence”, which is expected to be a “posh” workspace. Now, one associates the word satya with the likes of Gandhi (of the bapu variety) but definitely not something like “posh”. But this is a sign of the changed times, considering the netas (no names, as the list is endless) we have today.

As is now the practice, I was running along with Dr. Suresh Iyengar who has this uncanny ability to run at a consistent pace from beginning to the end. This time, Rakesh Rawat also gave us company, which indicates that the legend of Dr. Iyengar, the pacer, continues to grow. The Ring Road announced itself with an abrupt drop in temperature. Most of this part (unlike the eastern & northern stretches) of the Ring Road still doesn’t have any buildings alongside & there are open, green stretches on both sides. Apart from the cold (expected in the last week of December), there was a chill in the air too, making it feel colder. Of the three of us, none agreed with this lady runner. And I think Dr. Iyengar found her views a bit disturbing for Rakesh & I perceived him speeding up. Maybe, it was the chill which made him run faster. Whatever the reason, the pacer in Dr. Iyengar makes it look so easy even when in acceleration mode.

Going some further we saw a lady pacer a little ahead of us. As both the 02:30 pacers were men, we correctly guessed her to be the 02:45 pacer. Now, we were in a state wedded to BJP & in a city that is the karmabhoomi of Amit Shah & Narendra Modi. I realized that if we ran behind this lady pacer, who was named Sonia, we could be mistaken for being Congress supporters. I shared this with Rakesh & Dr. Suresh who too agreed with me. One of her passengers, overhearing us, assured us that such is not the case, but I believe that was more to save himself from some embarrassment! We disregarded his words & moved ahead as there are some compromises that are never made.

Distance running events provide lot of food for thought, turning most runners into philosophers. Running along the SG Highway, I came across an area barricaded by corrugated sheets with the words “Building Tomorrow” clearly visible from a distance. Inside, it was just a piece of open land, but a swanky entrance lined with potted plants was already built. Isn’t this true with most other aspects of life, including running, too? The doors of tomorrow have to be built today, else it will forever remain a dream. No one becomes a distance runner overnight. It’s the short runs one starts with that make us complete the long ones. So if you intend to run a HM/FM next year, begin the preparation right now.

There were a lot of things that made this edition of bsafal a very well managed & organized event. Primarily, it was the hydration provided. As per the route map (if I recall correctly), the organisers had planned hydration points every 4 km. But we found them at every 2 km, at least in the 1^st half for I did not even notice this later having broken off near the half-way (as is the practice). At the end of the Ring Road stretch, in fact, just as I came to the turn I heard a once-popular song from that Manoj Kumar starrer Kranti – Zindagi na toote ladi… (https://youtu.be/0K8wJnCq2pY). I would never have believed earlier that someone could listen to this particular song while running. But as I said earlier, patriotism runs in an amdavadi’s blood. And our friend here proved it again.

We turn left from Ring Road to move towards SG Highway. The road is wide with practically no traffic at this time. But it’s a RCC road, not the best one to run on. I opted to run on the pavement which had paver blocks, not much better but still better than the RCC surface. And this is quite a long stretch too. The organisers should consider an alternate stretch next time round. Barring this one, rest of the route was tar road, except a small stretch where metro construction was underway, which made it feel like a trail run (minus the vegetation)! So, we got a variety of running surfaces this here. Before reaching this portion, came across a tea stall with an interesting name – Khetarwala Bapa Tea Stall. Which shows that the average gujarati can smell a business opportunity before anyone else & knows how to encash it. I don’t know how the Khetla Aapa franchise reacted to this, but they have moved far ahead (https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/politics-and-nation/humble-chaiwallah-vs-chai-chain-will-khetla-aapa-bitten-tea-kiosks-survive-in-long-run/articleshow/61855510.cms) from their origins as a typical chai kitli.

This enterprising spirit has taken gujaratis palces & you will find them all over the globe. Essentially peace loving, they assimilate with the local culture easily, though the magnitude may differ. Like this runner here, who left no one in doubt where he came from (or where wished to go?). Our American Desi friend had a peaceful run, but would it have been so had he similarly dressed up in the Indian tricolor? But this is not a social/political post & let us stick to the run only.

For the entire stretch west of SG Highway, the participants & the traffic did not disturb each other except at a junction on the Ring Road where the FMers need to cross the road. The traffic police did a very good job manning the junctions. It also appears that the residents in this part sleep late on Sundays & stock up on morning supplies so as not to venture out in the cold. The volunteers also did a very good job & no point was found unmanned even towards the end of the route. I particularly liked the watermelons & chikki bars at fueling stations. Watermelons actually double up as hydration too, which was so thoughtful of the organisers. Running in the cold, whatever the distance, always finds me with a running nose, though it is not so much of a trouble as I usually breathe with the mouth. This one was no different. But I couldn’t eat the chikkis & breathe at the same time & had to alternate between the two. A very difficult task, especially when running!! Fortunately, I realized that I had a bottle of water with me & used it to clear the nose & wash the hands. Rest of the distance was very comfortable, though I didn’t get find chikkis later (till after the finish point).

We get back to the SG Highway as we near the end. The sun is up by this time & so are the amdavadis. Even the temperature is higher now, though the traffic at the junctions is still manageable thanks to the efforts of the traffic police. I have been running at a gradually decreasing pace & did not have much left inside. However, the weather being good & not having run much the previous weeks, the legs held on. We turn east at the gurudwara junction for the home stretch. This is a slight climb but one had to keep going to finish under 02:30. The traffic at the junction at the AES ground (just before the finish line) is now restive but the traffic police manages to hold them to let the runners pass. Which helps one finish at a fastest pace of the run. Looking at the pace chart after I finished, I realized that this one was run at a near negative pace. Thanks to Dr. Iyengar who unknowingly speeded up on the Ring Road & the route which did not have any traffic holding up the runners.

But the best part was tea seved in kulhad’s at the finish point (on payment basis). And the quantity of serving was much more than the famed “Amdavadi Chai”. No better way to end a half marathon!

When Daman Serves More than Beer...

(First posted on 16th Jan, 2016, on http://theotherwhys.blogspot.in/2016/01/when-daman-serves-more-than-beer.html) 

Long after the British left India, the Portuguese still occupied Goa, Daman & Diu. After liberation from Portuguese rule, they were a common Union Territory till Goa became a separate state. Daman is also the favorite go-to weekend destination for people in South Gujarat as it’s a Union Territory (low taxes) where the dry laws do not apply (freely available liquor). A little over 3 hours from Baroda by road/train makes it convenient even if the weekend is just 1-day long. The tourism department also organizes a Half Marathon (http://damanwindmarathon.org/) around Liberation Day (19^th December), where many runners from Baroda are regulars. 

If you think they participate for the easy availability of liquor, you are mistaken. Many have achieved their PB’s & best performances at the Daman Wind Marathon. This year I was also part of the Baroda contingent at Daman (there were others too, who turned up late). And like the rest, my priority was also clear (though different)!!

They start the run very early at Daman, around 5:30 am. I was staying at my aunt’s place in Vapi which is just across the border in Gujarat. I didn’t wish to disturb my cousin’s sleep early in the morning to drop me off, nor was I adventurous enough to drive back into Gujarat after a trip to Daman. So the previous night had me arranging an auto to pick me up early in the morning. It’s a tough task & my advice for those who may want to go to Daman next year onwards is simple – Daman is the place to stay. If you find Vapi convenient, make sure you have your own conveyance (and a driver, if you enjoy your post-run drink). Of the many who refused, I came across an autowala who informed that he was also participating (along with some 10/12 of his friends) in the marathon. I simply love it when someone is willing to chuck aside productive economic time to indulge in a favorite pastime. Unfortunately, he was running the 5K which started much later & could not take me along on his bike!! But one manages to get an auto at the Railway Station, where those on the night shift are most willing to take you for some Rs. 250/-. Don’t haggle much as one doesn’t have much of a choice. That’s my advice #2 & #3 for those wishing to run in Daman!!

An early morning start is good, as Daman is never really cold even in December. However, one does feel the chill riding an auto at 4:30 in the morning. But alighting at the Daman Football Ground, it feels pleasant, and more so after one does some stretching & warmup. The Daman Fort is still decked up with the lighting put up for Liberation Day, or maybe it is always there (this is my first time here).

On the bridge, I come across Mr. Amarjeet Singh, a 60-year young visually challenged runner from Mumbai. Around 9 years back, he started taking part in distance running events, beginning with the 7K at SCMM. Since then, he has completed 43 distance runs. A week prior to Daman Wind Marathon, he was running the HM at Goa River Marathon & was scheduled to run the HM in Nashik the next week. His spirit is truly commendable! He has to run with an escort who runs with him. At Daman, it was Harshal from Mumbai who ran with him. But this is not the difficult part. Even traveling outside Mumbai is a task. He needs an escort for that too. He defines the spirit of running the marathon, or the half for that matter – overcoming the odds & breaking through the physical & mental barriers.

The bridge on Damanganga river makes a pretty sight too, with all these decorative lights creating a canopy as we moved. The Daman administration has opted for the best day to organize the event when not only the city is decorated but even the weather is helpful. No wonder, outstation participants become a regular at Daman. It was still dark, when the sound of waves crashing on the shore announced we were near the Devka beach. And then we come upon all these resorts & hotels. There is enough hydration available along the route as these hotels put up water stations for the runners. The organisers also don’t need to put up portable toilets as Daman is dotted with hotels who open up their facilities for us. May be this is also a reason why the entry fees here are so low!

This guy is not a Bus. I didn’t see any at Daman. He is promoting the Valsad City Marathon, or shall we say he is its flag bearer? The Valsad Runners had sent a big team here, being in its neighbourhood.

A long stretch of the route is lined with coconut trees along the shore. In their welcome email, the organisers had informed that this piece of land belonged to one Sukur Narayan Bakhia, a smuggler who had, as one of his assistants, a guy called Haji Mastan!! Daman has history at every step, it seems.

We turn around at the gates of Wind World India, the event sponsors. They are doing a good job, putting this small Union Territory on the sporting calendar.

On my return leg, I come across Mr. Premshankar Pandya from Ahmedabad running on the other side of the road. At 75 years, he is 15 years younger than our Mr. Amarjeet Singh. He has been walking & running long distances for many years now. But that’s not what he is known for. He is recognized because he always runs barefoot wearing dhoti-kurta! He even ran the Vadodara Ultra barefoot, running so on the roads would be so much easier.

I always believed that Surtis thronged Daman for the beer & liquor. But coming to this stall, I realized Daman ,makes them feel at home. Of course, this gentleman doesn’t have the entire range of egg dishes that are served at a typical outlet in Surat, but has enough on the menu to get the Surti tourists get up & out for the breakfast.

Back in the city, we take the turn at the Clock Tower, still decorated with yesterday’s flowers & the dolphins at the top. Beware of this one, though. One look at the time & I was mighty pleased with myself. But once I took out my phone to take its pic, I realized it was around 55 minutes behind. I was totally deflated!

Back on the Damanganga bridge & the Daman Fort is still standing strong to welcome us back.

You would be well aware of what happens during that last kilometer. With not much distance left, and far lesser strength in those legs, runners pull up the last of the energy reserves that they can, to cut down the seconds. Now what will you do if you come across this sign at this stage? Would you still get ahead of that slowing runner ahead of you? Or would you just take it easy & wait till the turn ahead to move forward?

We finish where we began, just outside the Daman fort. May be the soldiers of the Maratha Light Infantry, at the end of the siege, felt as tired as we did at the finish line. We have to get into the fort for the medals & post-race breakfast (nothing to speak about). The fort now houses government offices. There’s also the beautiful Liberation day memorial, which made me wonder whether the cannon in the corner fired all these shots!! You can read more about the liberation of Goa, Daman & Diu at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_annexation_of_Portuguese_India.

They serve you the breakfast on the banks of the Damanganga river, where there is also small park. The children had energy enough to play in the park! They were proudly wearing their medals & bibs. The fun doesn’t stop for the kids.

Returning back, I once again met Mr. Amarjeet Singh & Harshal (his escort) & we got chatting. A group of young boys reached & greeted him. They were all praise for him, especially the fact that he finished earlier than they did. It was sincere, truthful praise that they had for Mr. Singh. He inspired more than a few at Daman.

I came out of the fort & after more than half an hour, hunted down a small bar that was open at 9:30 AM. Well, that’s what I was here for. The medal found its perch at Daman too.